Annapurna’s Untrodden Northern Trail

The Dashain holidays offer many Nepalis an opportunity to take a break from their daily routines and explore the mountains, making autumn a popular season for trekking. Despite concerns over damaged roads, landslides and flash floods, the relatively new route to Annapurna I North Base Camp promises an extraordinary Himalayan adventure for those willing to venture off the beaten track.

I had been travelling solo for nearly two years when an unexpected invitation changed my plans for Annapurna I North Base Camp. I had intended to begin the trek on September 24, 2025, but a message from Rojina Maharjan later that day persuaded me to postpone it until October 3 so that she and her friends could join me.

With the Meteorological Forecasting Division warning against long-distance travel, the decision was not easy. Nevertheless, we decided to take our chances. Before setting out, I washed my shoes to remove any seeds that might be carried into the higher-altitude environment and become invasive, a precaution that many travellers overlook.

On October 3, I headed to Kathmandu’s New Bus Park to purchase tickets. Booking was unavailable, so I bought tickets for three of us on the day of departure. Four more companions were to join us at Tatopani the following morning.

Our bus left at 5:30 pm and reached Tatopani, Bhurung, at around 8 am the next day. From there, we needed a jeep to Humkhola Dovan, the starting point of the trek.

The journey quickly became an adventure in itself. Heavy rain the previous night had blocked the road, and residents of Narchyang village were clearing the debris. According to Tej Bahadur Gurung, chairman of the Annapurna Area Management Committee, vehicles could resume operating only after the obstruction was cleared.

When a few jeeps finally arrived, scores of waiting trekkers rushed to secure a ride. Drivers demanded twice the committee’s usual fare of Rs. 8,000 per jeep. Despite our objections and complaints to the police, the inflated fares remained unchanged. We eventually waited five hours for a jeep from Beni.

With little choice, we stood on the vehicle’s cargo bed as it negotiated rough, uneven terrain for two and a half hours. We reached Humkhola Dovan at around 3:30 pm.

Gurung was there to welcome arriving trekkers. I thanked him for his pioneering efforts to open the route to the base camp, which provides access to the northern side of Annapurna I. The mountain was first climbed in 1950 by French mountaineers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, accompanied by Nepali climber Ang Tharki Sherpa.